Surfing #3

I first attempted surfing in September 2004 and then again in April 2005. I've stood up a couple of times on broken waves, but am constantly frustrated by how terrible I am in the water and how long it is going to take to be able to surf like the natives who cruise around like it is no more taxing than a stroll in the park.

Today saw my third distinct outing, and with a considerable amount of background research behind me courtesy of YouTube and the Extreme Sports TV channel, I had big expectations. After approximately 30 minutes of being beaten up and never once looking cool or in control, I needed to re-think my approach. Alex came out in Greg’s place and showed me how it was done by catching a few little ones. He shared a little advice with me, and recommended that I started off with less ambitious waves.

After a few attempts, I got to my feet and surfed into the shallow water, and after a couple more successful launches, I began refining my technique. It’s still only broken waves, but its progress. More tomorrow I think. After the beach, we went to Sub Palace and then to a house which Greg was working on last time I was over. It’s really nice, only a couple of streets over from Stonesteps beach in Leucadia, and it’s a possible place for my parent to stay when they come over in the spring.

Madeline is in work at the moment until 6pm, and this evening I think we’re going bowling with the family. Yesterday I got put onto Madeline’s phone plan so that we can share minutes now I have a cell phone. She was kind enough to give me her phone upgrade due to my love of gadgets, and she got a nice little one to sub in for her beach-ruined one.

She has another job interview on Monday with a publishing company near my school, so I think we’re going to head up to SF on Saturday now. I got an email off Pearly, and it sounds as though he’s going to be over in September. He’s getting 49ers tickets at the moment. Last night we went for margaritas and Mexican food with Madeline’s friends, (George, Matt, Bree, Smiley and Smiley’s girlfriend) and ended up back at Georges place smoking a hookah. He runs his own business making and exporting hookahs which is pretty cool:

http://www.hookahcompany.com/

Driving is coming along nicely and mum will be pleased to know that I have both new jeans and socks!